I've been making quilts for forty years. Evanston Quilt company started in 2015 when my fascination with all things quilty exceeded my attraction to a long commute and a regular paycheck. I love dogs, gardening, and quilting.
I do the decorative stitching that holds the layers of a quilt together. While I still love to make quilts, I don't make them for customers any more. I'm too busy putting beautiful stitching on other people's quilts!
I work on a Gammill Statler Stitcher, computerized for precision and beauty. I can provide a huge range of digital patterns to suit every quilt and every style preference.
This is one pattern, repeated all over the quilt. Sometimes referred to as an "all-over" design.
This is anything with more than one pattern, including borders, sashing, thread changes, and stitching in the ditch.
I carry Quilter's Dream 80/20, and Quilter's Dream Wool. Anything can be ordered. Costs vary.
1. Make your backing about 4 inches larger than your top on all four sides. This is so the backing can be attached to the table and held flat. Square it up if you can. Backings stay much more square when you work with fabric torn across the grain. This link may be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgrMWLmrimc
2. Examine and press your top as flat as you can. Look for faulty seams and repair them before you bring in your quilt. Remove loose threads from the back of your top. Remove all pins and attach any charms or novelty items AFTER longarming is completed.
3. Tops with piecing along the edge hold up better if you "stay-stitch" about 1/8th of an inch in from the edges all the way around. Seams at the edge can begin to separate during handling.
4. Prevent wavy borders!! Measure across the body of the quilt when figuring for borders. Don't measure the edge, slap on a border, and trim the excess. Your longarmer cannot always "quilt out" the resulting fullness, and might have to take tucks in order to get your borders to lie flat! Yikes!!!
This video may help: